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Below is a diary of entries journaling today's move from C2
to C3. Special thanks to the Italian Team for facilitating sending this
dispatch.
-Joel Shalowitz
Tuesday, 6:45 am
This morning we awoke to find base camp blanketed with 6" of
new snow. It had snowed all night and it
was still coming down. Chris radioed
down saying the inside of the tent was a "rainforest" - the swirling winds and
snow had blown inside the space between the outer tarp and the outside of the
inner tent , so the evaporating and condensing moisture from the climbers
inside the tent was causing "sweat drops" to rain down on them.
As they had yet to leave the tent, they still didn't know
how much snow had fallen around them. However, we all knew from yesterday's forecast
that the wind speeds were expected to lessen in the late morning so the
decision was made to sit tight and wait for the next weather forecast, expected between
9 and 10 am.
Tuesday, 7:15 am
Joao Garcia, a Portuguese climber whose tent was several
meters away from ours at Camp 2, radios the team. He has received his own forecast from home, so he and Chris compare notes. Both
come to the conclusion that things should begin to clear later in the morning,
and the move to C3 is the best plan. They also agree that it makes sense to
wait a while to see how the current conditions progress, however, and Joao adds
that if things don't improve he is staying put.
Tuesday, 7:50 am
The Russians at C2 poke their head in to the American tent and
announce that they are leaving for C3 at 11 am. Chris radios Joao to give him the news. It is clear now that the Russians, Americans,
and Joao are of the same mind and will likely be working on the same schedule
if not more directly together. Joao and
Chris further discuss summit prospects, noting from the weather reports that
Thursday and Friday are the best summit days.
Chris jokes that they and the Russians are both "orphans" so they have
to move today for a Thursday bid. The Americans spent the night in the Korean
men's tent, using the Italian's and Korean women's sleeping bags and a
Portuguese stove; the Russians camped in the Italian's tent. Joao notes also that while Thursday and Friday
are both good, a Saturday descent could be "snowy" and agrees Thursday would be
the best choice.
Tuesday, 8:15 am
Daniel Nardi, the leader of the Italian team, visits our base
camp and conferences in with Chris and Joao to discuss his team's plan. His team is at C1 and had intended to go to
C3 today but are also sitting tight.
Plans to go to C3 are dead but they are unsure whether to go to C2 or go
down. Chris suggests that perhaps the
Italians and Joao swap C2 and C3 tents for the night, as Joao's tent is standing
sturdy at C2 and in better shape than the Italian's, and the Italians have one
standing at C3 which would save Joao the trouble of lugging and then setting up
a tent after a grueling trip. Daniel
moves to another frequency to discuss with his team, and moments later, Mario,
an Italian climber at C1, joins in. After a few more moments of discussion,
they all agree on the plan, and Mario thanks "his American and Portuguese friends."
Chris then adds, "Now we're all one
team."
Tuesday, 9:15 am
At base camp, while checking for the weather, the computer
crashes. Over the next few hours we
continue to work on it but are unsuccessful and consequently, have not received
the weather forecast that virtually half of the teams on the mountain are now
waiting for.
While this is going on, the rest of the teams are also
circulating information as to the whereabouts of an Iranian climber and two
Sherpas working with the Korean women's team.
The Iranian was last seen yesterday between C1 and C2 but is climbing
alone and does not have a radio with him.
The Sherpas were to have arrived at C2 yesterday, but as of last night
the Korean women had not heard from them.
Our Team had seen them arrive after 6:00 pm to find a destroyed tent, yelling into their radios trying to contact their team. At this point there was confusion as to
whether they stayed at C2 or went back to C1.
Tuesday, 11:45 am
At base camp we finally call our weather service getting a
summary forecast over the phone and requesting the detailed report be sent to
the Italian's email address, as they were kind enough to offer us their
communication services. The upside of
the news is that the snowy, windy weather that has unexpectedly lingered is
expected to stay on until the early evening; however, the rest of the week is
expected to play out as previously expected.
Several minutes later Joel walks down to the Italian camp with Daniel
to receive the emailed report, and they spend the next 15 minutes relaying more
detailed information to their respective teams.
Tuesday, 12:30 pm
Chris radios down to BC to say that he and the team have
talked things over and decided to go on a recon trip. If things look well, they will push to
C3. Joao joins in on the radio to
confirm what he's heard. He says to be
careful -- the winds are still blowing.
Chris says, "Yeah, but it's not any worse than anything we've faced so
far." Joao says he's likely to wait things
out and maybe go to C4 tomorrow.
We also learn that all three climbers in question are
ok. The Italians have found the Iranian climber
in Camp 1 and the Korean women's Sherpas have been spotted speaking via radio
to their team farther below.
Tuesday, 4:00 pm
Sergey, a Russian team member, has stopped by our base camp
tent to inquire about the team's progress.
He says the Russian team decided to stay at C2 to wait things out. We are not sure of how long our climbers
trip will take. On a good day
it should take 5-6 hours; the last time our team made this journey (in similar
conditions) it took 8 hours.
Tuesday, 6:30 pm
The climbers radio to announce they have made it safely to
Camp 3 and are just getting settled in their tent. The five and a half hour trip was marked by
higher winds than yesterday, getting to 60, 70 mph and more. They said at points they were in snow up to
their armpits. For now they are
concentrating on getting some fluids and will give a fuller description
shortly.
Tuesday, 8:40 pm
Don calls back to debrief on the day. He said that the winds were so strong that
the climbers couldn't face west for fear of deeply freezing their faces and
other exposed skin. Despite this they
made really good time, logging the trip up to 7,000 meters in about 4
hours. Arriving then at the bottom of
the slope marking the last leg up to Camp 3, the conditions began to change. The wind died down as did the snow, except
for some small spin drifts, but the snow underfoot quickly deepened from inches
to feet to meters. In fact, at one point
Don stopped for a moment and he realized, as he sank to his armpits, that his
feet never touched bottom. He continued
to lead the way and estimated that the final leg took over 2 hours. As they arrived finally at 7,400 meters, the
sun was just setting and the snow was falling (and was still falling during our
call) so they'll wait ‘til morning to assess the way forward to C4. For now they plan to get some rest for the
big day tomorrow.
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