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Transcribed approximately 6 am EST. The intent of this
dispatch is to fill in some of the details of the hours immediately
after the summit and through the descent. As you know, upon reaching
the summit, the American climbers decided to work with the lone Czech
climber for the descent. The Americans found the Czech around the area
of the summit cone lying down. The Americans assisted him down to their
tent at Camp 4 where the four men shared the three-man tent for the
evening. They also determined that he was hypothermic and worked to
warm his body through the night.
The next morning, the climbers woke with the intent of making it back
to Base Camp. As they were preparing to leave, Don discovered that his
crampons were missing. Nevertheless, the climbers began their descent
with Don leading the way. A short time later, Don hit an icy patch of
snow and fell approximately 50 meters. He was able to arrest his fall
but incurred an injury to one of his upper legs. It is unclear as to
whether his injury is a fracture, severe contusion, sprain or strain,
but Don was able to make it the rest of the way to Camp 3. After the
fall, when he stood to test it, he found that it could bear weight and
determined that it would be possible to descend the rest of the way to
Camp 3. He would decide to what to do from there. Once at Camp 3, Don
was able to join up with several of the Italians, and they made the
decision to continue down to Camp 2 together. Obviously, Don took
things very slowly and very carefully. A couple hours after he left
Camp 3, Joel at BC was able to spot him, with binoculars, through the
parting clouds. He successfully descended to Camp 2. Bruce and
other climbers reached Camp 2 without incident. In all, five climbers
shared one tent and Bruce found space in another small tent.
Up higher, Chris continued to work with the Czech, Libor Uher, while
descending from Camp 4, but their progress was very slow. Upon reaching
Camp 3 they determined to rest there for evening to conserve energy and
get a good nights sleep for the following day.
Later that afternoon around 5pm, Libor, accompanying Chris in the
tent, perceived that Chris' level of consciousness was altered.
Chris was not responding normally and either appeared very "sleepy" or
may have even passed out for a short time. It seems that Chris
may have suffered from carbon monoxide poisoning (possibly from using a
stove with very low fuel canisters) or carbon dioxide poisoning
(possibly from the reduced ambient oxygen at altitude and the build up
of exhaled gasses in the tent). Acting quickly, Libor revived Chris
from his stupor and Chris spent the next hour outside the tent
breathing fresh air and regaining his clarity. From then on the two
were able to sleep comfortably through the evening.
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