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We are safely back in base camp. Safely back from the summit. Safely
back from a challenging descent. And safely packing barrels for the
trip home. But the stories keep coming and we want to share them. The
only problems: our last two laptops have died (I'm writing this on a
borrowed unit) and we have a more pressing responsibility than the
crafting of pithy phrases. Our team is still focused on the evacuation
of Don, with his broken leg.
It seems as if Don sustained a fracture of his fibula, (but we won't
know the true extent of the injuries, without first getting an x-ray).
We are about 65 miles from the nearest road. A helicopter evacuation
has been ordered. The bad weather system hanging over the range has the
helicopters grounded, so we wait.
In
the meantime Joel, Bruce and Chris Stensland will be racing down the
trail, with a small team of porters carrying theirs and Don's personal
gear. They may just beat Don to Skardu, where his helicopter will land.
I'll be a few days behind, not trekking out until Don has flown.
Chris S will wait in Skardu for Don. Bruce and Joel will continue
towards home. Joel is carrying over a dozen videotapes and will have
plenty of stories ready to release during the first week of August.
That is our goal: fresh content on the site within ten days. All of
this will lead up to our next big event, the show on NBC this fall.
And
the stories we want to tell: our epic ascent from camp to camp,
fighting blinding snow storms, waist deep snow, howling winds and a
steadily decreasing supply of food and fuel. We want to share the
partnerships that formed, between teams and individuals. We want to
capture summit day: one that started tragically (with the death of Nima
Sherpa) and ended tragically (with the death of Stephano, the Italian
climber). We want to share the finding of and rescue of "Taliban" the
Czech climber [Libor Uher], spending the night with 4 of us crammed in
a 3-person tent, with only three sleeping bags. We need to tell about
the epic descent from C4, in a total whiteout, with Don leading two
Italian climbers and one Iranian (and Bruce and I leading the last
Italian and the Czech). We all fought for our lives, down slopes that
could avalanche or simply end in a fatal fall. Above C3 is where Don,
his crampons mysteriously gone missing from C4 and so left to descend
without them, fell 100 feet, breaking his leg.
And
while all the other stories are compelling, the truly amazing story is
of Don breaking his leg at 23,000 feet, in a raging blizzard,
surrounded by exhausted climbers, who seconds before were dependent
upon him for their safety. It will take hours to write that story,
especially since the facts are fragile and the twisting has already
begun (some egos are being protected). Short on time, let me give you
some facts: Don lowered himself, with very little assistance, from C3
to the end of the fixed ropes (about 500 feet from the bottom of the
mountain). This must amount to 150 rappels. He pulled himself sideways
over rocks and across patches of snow. Every time the ends of his bones
twisted against themselves the pain stole his breath. But as long as
there was a rope to pull himself along or lower down he could make slow
progress. But where the ropes stopped, he was at a dead end. Just above
C2, well past dark, the winds still howling, he came to a gap of twenty
feet, with no rope. At least 6 climbers, exhausted from the descent,
passed over him, refusing to cut a section of cord for him. Bruce
finally arrived cutting the rope and helping Don reach C2. Things got
worse. 4 climbers were already in one of the few standing tents. Don
crawled in (bursting the seams of a 3 person tent). Inside was his
sleeping bag, stuffed with another climber. Don asked for his bag:
"Yesterday this was your bag. Tomorrow this will be your bag. But
tonight this is my bag." They survived the night. But there was no
water for Don.
The descent continues. I am coming from C3 with the Czech climber.
Don continues to lower himself on the ropes. Hours tick by, the
mountain wrapped in storm clouds. At C1, some porters who are working
for the Italians arrive, giving Don some Coca Cola and taking his pack.
The Czechs have sent an advanced team to help us. Joseph and Colombo
reach Don as Bruce, Taliban and I continue the sweep of the peak. We
all come together a few hundred feet above the glacier. The tension of
the descent is thick in the air, but the relief of seeing help cuts
through it. We are the last people on K2. We slowly lower ourselves to
the moraine, where 4 more Czech climbers have turned the epic descent
into a party.
Don, Chris Stensland and I spent the night at ABC. It was still cold
and wet. A foggy dawn brought 35 climbers and kitchen staff from base
camp. It was an amazing site: after so many days on the edge of
survival, wondering where you find the strength to keep fighting, to
see so many people, dressed in colorful clothes, come tromping up the
moraine to ABC. The calvary had literally arrived. We had won the
battle.
I
want to take plenty of time to think through the events of the summit
push and the descent. I seem to always come away from these experiences
with a lot of questions and mixed emotions. When you witness such
tragedy (10% of your comrades dying in one day) it shakes you up. And
when you work so closely with Russian and Portuguese climbers, Italians
and Koreans, Iranians and Czechs, towards such a powerful goal, it is
uplifting. And when you witness the insensitivity and selfishness that
human beings, at the very end of their survival tether, sometimes lapse
into, it is depressing. But when you witness men like Don Bowie,
lowering himself for thousands and thousands of vertical feet, in an
Old Testament-style tempest, you become convinced that the human spirit
burns brightly and beautifully. And if some day you are so blessed to
spend time with Taliban, the Czech climber, you will experience a man
who knows that honor, integrity and humility is best learned by first
dying, then being brought back to life by strangers who plucked you
from a mountain side, bathed you in love and warmth, and slowly lead
you back to the ones you love.
It is time to get home.
Chris Warner
[Ed. Note: Due to an unanticipated confluence of technical
difficulties, this dispatch was intended for publication on Tuesday,
July 24, 2007. All Images Courtesy Libor Uher, Czech BP/K2 Website .]
Additional information from Don Bowie's dispatches (www.donbowie.net) and family:
Don was seen by an orthopedic surgeon who happened to be visiting Base
Camp. A preliminary diagnosis suggests that Don may have broken his
fibula, a bone in his lower leg. It is uncertain whether he needs
surgery or not.
Since removing his climbing boots, Don has been in severe pain and has
required assistance to move about. Chris Warner and others helped Don
relocate to Broad Peak's Base Camp where he was expecting a helicopter
evacuation to Skardu. Due to poor weather it was believed that the
earliest opportunity was Saturday, July 28th, 2007.
As always, things move slowly but change quickly! Earlier today,
Thursday 26th, 2007, the unexpected happened - Don found himself swept
away by the extraordinary generosity of 20 enthusiastic helpers. They
came running to bid Don farewell and help him board the "premature"
arrival of the helicopter. Don, reporting from a hotel in Skardu, is
believed to have exclaimed, "It was crazy. I grabbed a few essentials
and left my pitched tent and its contents behind. People were fighting
to board the chopper. One climber was apparently thrown off after
ignoring orders to disembark. There were a lot of desperate people out
there!" -RA
[Ed. Note: Don is expected back in the US Monday, July 30, 2007]
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