Well, as we have been reminded time and time again - the only thing we have learned to expect at K2 is the unexpected.

As you know, after finding the original East Face route impassable, the climbers huddled to assess the situation and identified a new unclimbed ridge to pursue. Returning to Base Camp, they reviewed the weather forecast, hashed out logistical strategies and set out last Wednesday, first to ABC, and then to Camp 1, with plans to use the next days setting fixed lines, hauling up equipment and establishing Camps 2 and 3. They would then return back to Base Camp to rest and wait out the expected snowstorm this weekend before making the summit push next week. To a man, they left ABC with tremendous confidence, given the weather conditions and their success thus far pushing the route. And this success continued through the end of the week as they ascended higher this season than any other team on that side of the mountain. Unfortunately, with the approach of the weekend, so too came a change in circumstances.

The climbers closed Friday having reached new heights but unable to find a suitable place to establish Camp 2 - one with sufficient space for a tent and sufficient coverage from increasing threats of snow and rock fall. Each additional day without Camp 2 meant starting each morning with a 4 hour commute from Camp 1, before that day's work could begin. On Saturday they got up to 6500 meters and still couldn't find anywhere safe to set up Camp 2 - but more pressing, the conditions began to change drastically with frequent and ongoing rockfall becoming the norm and an assessment that the threat was increasing. At that point they had two choices: to bailout left or bailout right; both of those became impossible because they had tons of avalanche danger - the warming trend had caused constant wet slides in both directions all day. 

They faced a dead end - they had spent three weeks on the mountain on two different routes and had given everything they had. But faced with suicidal conditions, there was only one option - to bring the ropes, tents and equipment back to ABC and evaluate new alternatives.

Once at ABC, the team made the decision to refocus their efforts on the classic Abruzzi route.   Classics earn their stature for a reason and the Abruzzi is no exception - it is the legendary route on which the summit was first conquered. Further, the acclimatization gained by the team during their previous efforts meant they could take advantage of the current weather window and accelerate their summit chances by a week. The next step, as a matter of etiquette, was to first confer with the Korean team who had been working on the route, had placed fixed lines and was in the process of settling Camp 2. The Shared Summits team was pleased to find their decision met by the Koreans with respect - they had been watching the our team breaking new ground over the last three weeks and were the ones to point out that we had actually ascended farther up the mountain. After hammering out some of the further implications of two teams making their ascents in parallel, the two expeditions agreed to work in concert, with the Koreans (already at least a day ahead on the mountain) likely to summit first on Wednesday.  The Shared Summits team is currently at Camp 1 and the plan now is to get to Camp 2 on Monday, Camp 3 on Tuesday, Camp 4 on Wednesday, summit on Thursday, and descend on Friday ahead of the weekend's weather. 

After all of the work, dedication, and planning of the past year, and twists and turns of the month long endeavor to set the route, the Shared Summits team has finally arrived at summit week - game on.  Naturally, we will be sending out frequent dispatches this week up until and including summit day as well as the descent down. I'd also like to add that the entire team is tremendously appreciative of all the well wishes that have made their way to the mountain and the outpouring of support that has come to the website and the response to the radio and newspaper coverage in the last weeks. It inspires us to strive to honor your support.

Joel Shalowitz